All seam allowances are ¼in, unless otherwise noted.
Press all seams to one side, unless otherwise instructed.
Press all fabrics well before cutting.
RST = right sides together.
FG = Flying Geese.
WOF = width of fabric.
This pattern assumes all fabric off the bolt is 44in wide.
1. From each of the grey fabrics cut:
- Five (5) 3in wide strips.
- Use the Flying Geese ruler to subcut three strips into five (5) centre triangles and ten (10) side triangles.
- Subcut the remaining two strips into eight (8) 5¼in x 3in rectangles.
(The only directional fabric in this project is the grey floral print. If you want the florals to be facing the right direction, cut half the triangles so the print goes upwards, and the other half so the print goes downwards).
2. From each of the yellow and teal fabrics cut:
- Two (2) 7in x 5¼in rectangles.
- Two (2) 5½in x 5¼in pieces.
- Three (3) 3in wide strips.
- Use the Flying Geese ruler to subcut two strips into four (4) centre triangles and eight (8) side triangles.
- Subcut the remaining strip into two (2) 5¼in x 3in rectangles.
3. From leftover print fabrics cut:
- 2in strips, for the binding to lengths of fabric. Mix all the prints together if you want a scrappy binding.
4. From the white print fabric cut:
- Eight (8) 3in strips.
- Use the Flying Geese ruler to subcut four strips into twenty (20) centre triangles.
- Subcut the remaining four strips into forty (40) side triangles.
5. From the white solid fabric cut:
- One (1) 20½in x WOF piece.
- One (1) 12½in x WOF piece.
- Two (2) 48in x WOF pieces, for the backing.
Piecing the Flying Geese units
6. To make one chevron block: take a white centre triangle and lay a grey side triangle on top, right sides together (RST), matching up the side and bottom edges. The top corner of the grey triangle and side corner of the white triangle will stick out a little.
7. Sew the two pieces together, ¼in away from the edge. Fold outwards and press.
8. Line a second grey side triangle up against the left-hand edge of the white triangle, as before. Sew together, fold out and press. You now have one Flying Geese unit.
9. Repeat steps 6-7 with a grey central triangle and two white side triangles to make a reverse Flying Geese unit .
10. Trim the dog ears (excess seam allowance) away from the edges to make two 2½in x 5in blocks.
11. Sew the two blocks together to create one chevron block. Press the joining seam to the side.
12 Repeat steps 6-11 to make:
- Four (4) yellow print chevron blocks.
- Four (4) teal chevron blocks.
- Six (6) geometric grey chevron blocks.
- Six (6) floral grey chevron blocks. Remember the fabric placement here: ensure that your print faces upwards in three of the blocks, and downwards in the other three. This ensures that when you flip the bottom strip downwards, the print will still face the right direction.
Assembling the quilt top
13 Sew the chevron blocks into strips, with the coordinating 5¼in x 3in rectangles in between each one. Make:
- Two (2) yellow print strips with two (2) chevron blocks in each.
- Two (2) teal strips with two (2) chevron blocks in each.
- Two (2) geometric grey strips with three (3) chevron blocks in each.
- Two (2) floral grey strips with three (3) chevron blocks in each (matching the directions of the print for each).
14. The grey strips should now be complete. Finish each teal and yellow print strip to measure approximately 23in x 5¼in. To do so, sew the 7in x 5¼in rectangles to the top of each strip. Then sew the 5½in x 5¼in pieces to the bottom of each strip. Press each strip.
15. Sew the strips into two units of four strips, referring to the below image for colour placement. Line them up along the bottom before sewing. Make sure both strip blocks are exactly the same, so that they’ll be in reverse order when the bottom block is flipped. Press seams flat.
16. The top edge may be a little uneven, so straighten up with a rotary cutter and ruler when complete. Sew the two strip blocks together, matching up the seams and press.
17. Place your completed strip block right side up, and join the white 12½in x WOF piece to the right-hand side. Press the seam flat. Then join the white 20½in x WOF piece to the left-hand side and press the seam. Trim the white and print sections so that the edges are even, to finish the quilt top.
Quilting and finishing
18. Join the two 48in x WOF pieces of white fabric together along the long edge, using a ½in seam. Press the seam open. Trim to roughly 48in square. You will be left with extra white fabric – keep for another project!
19. Make a quilt sandwich by placing the white backing piece face down, then the batting on top, then place the quilt top centrally and right side up. The backing and batting will be a little larger than the quilt top, to allow for any movement while quilting.
20. Baste using your preferred method. I spray basted the layers together, although you could always thread baste, or use pins or safety pins. Whatever your preference, ensure that your three layers are secure before quilting.
21. If you have one, apply a walking foot to your sewing machine. This will help to avoid your fabrics from bunching up while you quilt.
22. Quilt as desired. I quilted a simple straight line design, with freehand lines in varying widths apart. To so do, stitch with the quilt foot lined up against the chevron strips to start. From that point, use your lines of stitching to fill in the rest of the space. If you want your lines a little neater, or need a little more guidance, use a removable fabric marker to lightly mark quilting lines to follow.
23. Once happy with your quilting, trim the excess batting and backing fabric even with your 44in quilt top.
24. Take your 2in strips of teal fabric and sew together into one strip, end-to-end, using diagonal seams. Press the seams open and trim away the dog ears.
25. Fold in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press. Sew the binding to the front of the quilt, folding a neat mitre at each corner.
26. Then fold the binding over to the back, using pins or binding clips to hold in place. Hand stitch in place, using a coordinating coloured thread and a slipstitch, to finish.